Initial mechanical assembly

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Step By Step!
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Step By Step!

Contents

Section 01 - Initial assemblies

Start charging your battery now, if you haven't already, so that you will have it for Section 4.

Be very careful to assemble these parts correctly. Make sure. I had to re-do a few of these, ouch. Subsection 1 note the square part has a top and bottom. The bottom is open, while the top has flat parts. Make sure that you maintain that orientation, as you assemble these first parts.


- Bag 2
- Bag 3
- Bag 21

Section 02 More assemblies to mess up!

Be very careful to follow the diagram exactly as it's very easy to get the sides mixed up between these parts. Make sure to use your sharpie pen to mark the parts A and B as indicated under tag 2 in the diagram.

Section 03 Controller board

Follow the diagrams exactly. Remember that when you connect the servo cables to the RCB board, all of the black ground wires go to the outside edge of the board. Beware because the screws strip easily! Also, make sure you have the correct bags because there are two with 2x6 screws.

- Bag 20

Section 04 "ZEROING" the Servos

The goal of this step is to attach each servo to the controller board, driving it from the heart to heart software and zero each servo. This will center the servo said that when you attach the alarms to the servo. It will have a full range of motion in both directions. Make sure that once the servos are zeroed that you do not turn the armed picture of the servo. Before you put the arm on in the orientation shown in the diagram. In step four of this section you will open up the heart to heart software and create a position by clicking on the position of and double clicking within the campus. When you double-click the TOS one position icon. It will bring up a panel that you will set to zero for the channel number of the connection that you have used up the RCB controller board. We suggest that you use Channel 14. All of the settings. Once the window opens, for that position, icon. You'll need to right-click, Channel 1 area and tell it that that is a servo by right clicking servo.

This step is critical. You will temporarily assemble the controller board and set the "ZERO" on each servo. This must be done correctly and the servo armature must NOT be moved again until the "horns" (or hones) are attached. To do this, these are the general steps:

  • Install the USB driver on your PC. Have fun. It will probably have to run twice for no apparent reason. Just go with it. A re-boot is not required.
  • Install the HTH3 software. Just copy it to a folder, there is no install program. I suggest creating a nest of folders:
    hth3
     |
   ---------
  |    |    |
RCB  TRIM  JAPANESE

The RCB folder is for .RCB extension files that are MOTION files. The TRIM folder is where to put .RCB extension files with ONLY trim data. Note that the contents of these two files are DIFFERENT, even though the software is not smart enough to suggest different extensions for them. You will appreciate the trim files later, trust me...

  • Copy the RCB files from the CD to the JAPANESE folder. Download our MASTER_RCB.ZIP file at Downloads. Unzip all of the file that do not have the word TRIM in them to the RCB folder. Unzip the ones with TRIM into the TRIM folder.
  • Hookup the controller cable (the longest one in the pack of black/white/red servo cables) to the controller according to the pix. Hookup the rest of the stuff and prepare to work on each of the servos.
  • Start HTH3. Click POS and click in the canvas area to create a new POS object. Double click it and then right-click the "CH1" and set it to SERVO.
  • Hookup the first servo to the CH1 on the board. ALL servos hook with the BLACK wire to the OUTSIDE edge of the RCB controller board.
  • Gently move the slider on the CH1, and you should see and hear the servo move. Set it to 0 and set it aside. You cannot just type '0' in the field. You must move the slider with the mouse or the left and right arrow keys.
  • Rinse and repeat for all servos.

DO NOT TOUCH THE ARMATURES ONCE THEY ARE SET TO ZERO!

- Bag 28
- Bag 29
- Bag 30
- Bag 38

Section 05 Two lower arms

This is the perfect opportunity to install the additional 2 degrees of freedom (DOF), if you've obtained that kit. The empty block that you're attaching in one step of this section, would actually be replaced with a servo to provide rotation for the arms of the robot. If you choose to purchase that option.

You should label the cables with the appropriate channels by using the adhesive labels provided or with a sharpie. The stickers don't work very well so it is recommended that you label them with a sharpie. To do this, just write the channel number on the connector that would be plugged into the board.

- 2 Servos
- 2 200mm cables
- 2 L shaped pieces made in Section 1
- Bag 6
- Bag 19
- Bag 20

Section 06 Two hands

This is another section to be very sure of the orientation of the parts of the servos as you screw them together. Be sure also to identify them with the servo number tanks on the end of the servo cables.

Make note that the servo number tags do not have particularly good adhesive on hand at the end of the process when you're actually installing them in the body, it is likely that they will begin to separate. We suggest that you use transparent tape or some method to secure these number tags to the end of the servo wires, because it's very difficult to identify those wires if you lose those tags. Or, you could take a sharpie and label them on the connector as previously suggested.

In this step and the others where you installed the angle gauges. Under the servo arm. Note that the angle gauge has adhesive on the back, and a clear coating of plastic over the front that should be peeled off before you apply the period. In addition, the angle gauges have two indents on the ends of the arms that fit into two holes in the face of the servo to make sure that they're aligned perfectly.

- 2 Servos
- 2 400mm cables
- Bag 1
- Bag 7
- Bag 19
- Bag 22
- Bag 32

Section 07 Two arms appear

As you screw together these subassemblies, make sure to note your right and left markings that you had already put on them and continue to use the all our and L. Marx. As you proceed to build the subassemblies into full assemblies. Section 08. This is another great opportunity to mess up the orientation of these parts follow the diagram strictly note. In step three bag. You will be inserting this screw through the back of the round arm pitcher attaching to the servo. This will be used for alignment securing purposes. Do not forget in step six to remove the screw from the back of the servo. Any time you see a servo cable depicted in a diagram that means that there is a required routing for that cable and pay very close attention. Remember that the orientation of the arms have their attached to the servos, is critical to make sure that your robot has full range of motion. If you put one of the arms on at the wrong angle having twisted the arm and teacher of the servo prior to attaching it, you will wind up limiting the motion of the servo in one direction.

- Bag 11
- Bag 21
- Bag 23

Section 08 Shoulders

Make sure you are using the correct 2x6 screws! Bag 24 should be used in Subsection 3/4/5 and Bag 20 should be used in Subsection 9/10.

- Bag 2
- Bag 8
- Bag 19
- Bag 20
- Bag 22
- Bag 24
- Bag 32
- Bag 40

Section 09 Upper chest

One difficult part of assembling the power connector. In this step is in ensuring that it stays in its channel, we used a bit of see a say on cyanoacrylate glue to secure it because if it were to pop roots channel into the back. It's difficult to retrieve without disassembling this part of the chest.

Remember to keep the servo centered! If it spins while you are screwing in the gear, make sure you center it again before screwing it into the adjoining piece.

- Power switch
- Bag 9
- Bag 20

Section 10 Get a head

Pay particular attention to the routing of the servo cable. You may find it helpful to use the PDF file of the documentation and zoom in on these parts diagrams to ensure that you get these cables routed properly.

- 1 Servo
- 1 200mm cable
- Bag 20
- Bag 22
- Bag 32

Section 11 Drop to the feet

In this section, you might find it very helpful to lay out all of the parts for the feet and ankles before you assembled. Take all the parts listed in this section and set them up without screwing up together before you do and double check them against the diagrams. Note that the feet are symmetrical. There is no orientation required for the flick itself however, the direction of the servos relative to each other is critical. Make sure when you route the servo cable for servo 15 that you carefully align it so that it goes through the channel area of the mounting plate and does not get pinched.

- 2 500mm cables
- Bag 10
- Bag 18
- Bag 19

Section 12 Ankles

Make sure that you align the arm, exactly as indicated in the diagram. In steps three and four here, it is very easy to confuse the orientation of the arms that go on top of the foot servos. Make absolutely sure that you set up the right and the left and have parts a and B. in steps three and four. Set up on the correct feet. Notice that the two subassemblies of the arms that attach are labeled a and B. Waldo. Feet are labeled left and right. You sure sharpie marker to label these subassemblies with the left and the right. Once the A. and P. parts are used that terminology is no longer important. And everything else goes by left and right

My diagram was a little messed up so don't get too confused.

- Bag 1
- Bag 4
- Bag 21
- Bag 22
- Bag 23

Section 13 Lower legs

When attaching the brackets using the 15 mm screws that go into the servo, the very careful. The 15 mm screws are very likely to strip their heads if you turn them too quickly or too hard, because they're so much threat area to cause friction. You can see in this diagram in steps two and three that the arrows. Especially in me in set picture the direction of those arrows indicate the removal of the screws. As we progress through the assembly in your removing more parts, because there are several sections later, where assemblies are taken apart, pay particular attention to the direction of the arrows whether the arrows are showing the screws being put in or taken out.

- 2 Servos
- 2 400mm cables
- Bag 11
- Bag 19

Section 14 Upper legs

In step one with the arm is being attached, make sure to line up the tab on the arm with the Index guide exactly on the mark as shown. When you tighten the 3 x 8 mm screws. It will rotate the arm pitcher, so make sure that the arm is seated on a rolled our mature before you tighten the screws down. Steps for five and six give you another opportunity to mix up the parts for the left and the right. This is one critical area in building the legs, where left and right. Absolutely matters. This is where your marks on the subassemblies come in real handy.

Channel 20 ankle goes with Channel 15 foot. This is Manoi's right foot. Channel 14 ankle goes with Channel 21 foot. This is Manoi's left foot.

- Bag 1
- Bag 4
- Bag 21
- Bag 22
- Bag 23

Section 15 Completed left leg

Steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 of this section are particularly challenging. The orientation of the servos is critical. Especially note that the servos in the pictures have the arm which are extending out of one side and no more mature extending out of the other side. This is another good time to set up your parts for both sides, left and right before you begin to screw them together.

Make note to where the wire is going on Servo 19

- 4 Servos
- 4 300mm cables
- Bag 12

Section 16 Wiring the leg

Have you learned how to read Japanese, yet? This section offers the greatest opportunity to mess up or reverse your subassemblies. Be really careful. Steps seven of this section shows the use of the zip tie on the servo cables. We suggest that the black zip tie provided with the kit are larger than they need to be for this purpose, and you may consider using smaller zip ties. One of the things to be very careful of here is the direction (as in COLOR orientation) of the servo cables as you thread them up through the legs. You want to get a nice consistent look when a bundle of the cables travels along the outside of the robot. It would be better to have them all in the same orientation color wise. In order to do that you need to start at the origin of the cable and keep them lined up through the whole process, through the whole leg.

Also note that the cable guide clips that you attach last have two channels through them to allow a total of five cables. One divided side is larger than the other. The diagrams show to use the side further from the attachment point.

- Bag 11
- Bag 12
- Bag 19
- Bag 22
- Bag 25
- Bag 31

Section 17 Completed right leg

These are the most challenging steps so far, because of the servo cable routing. Using the PDF file zoomed in on the diagrams can be a real benefit. Work very hard to get the cables lined up so the colors match in step nine.

Section 18 Get hip

In steps two and three, notice that the servos are facing in opposite directions. Here is one of those situations where you will be removing one of the brackets that you had previously installed. This is a step nine. Here's a perfect reason to review the assembly instructions in full. Prior to beginning your assembly.

- 2 Servos
- 2 200mm cables
- Bag 19

Section 19 Pelvis from Elvis

Section 20 It's a BRAIN

Section 21 Working shoulders

Section 22 Torso twist

Section 23 Tedious wiring

Section 24 Attach the head

Section 25 Chest and pecs

Section 26 Battery cover

Remember those "lexan" scissors? Here is where you get to use them. I found that doing one whole ROUGH cut first to remove a large amount of the excess material is valuable. Then go in for a second and third time to get it exact.

Section Software

Reversing the servos
Setting home position

When you are trimming the robot to get it to stand properly. Its best to hold it in your hand. If you put a piece of electrical tape on the bottom edges of the chest cavity. You can balance it on your finger. This gives you tactile feedback on the servo movement as you adjust and trip the servos.

If you enter a number into the input box for a servo position, make sure to terminate your entry by pressing the enter key. If you do not press the enter key after you put a number in that number will not take effect and the slider will not move. Once you press the enter key, you will notice that the slider jumps to the position equivalent to the number that you've keyed in. Alternately, you can click the left or right arrows to the sides of the slider or most conveniently click the slider wants to highlight it, and then use the right and left arrow keys on your keyboard to adjust it. When you do that, make sure to adjust slowly and try not to hold the key down so that it auto repeats. This could result in queuing up a buffer full of actions causing the servos to go way too far.

Make sure when you select your software that for the Manoi he you use the Heart to Heart 3 version, not the Heart to Heart 3J version. The three J. version is used for the condo, KHOR robot's with the RCB JE controller board. The Manoi he uses the RCP controller board, which has different firmware.

Section X Page 70

Programming

Section B01

Section B02

Section B03

Section B04

Section B05

Section B06

Section OP01 Two DOF Arms Option

two KRS-4024SHV
two 3x8 screws
eight 2x15 screws
two 300mm servo cables

Section OP02 One DOF Waist Option

one KRS-2350HV
nine 3x8 screws
four 2.6x8 screws
two end plates
one round servo hone (disc)
four of something I cannot identify 
(Section OP02, Page 96, fourth item down in parts list at top of page.)
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